The skincare ingredients dermatologists say we should all be using

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Not all skincare ingredients are created equal. There are a few that are without a doubt essential to any successful skin care routine.

But with so many vibrant ingredients and countless products on the market, it can be difficult to navigate through them all.

That’s why we went straight to the people in the know – Dr. Stephanie Williamscosmetic dermatologist and founder of EUDELO Dermatology & Skin Wellbeing Clinic, and Dr. Anjali Mahtoconsultant dermatologist and author of The Skincare Bible – and asked them what skincare ingredients should we all be using?

This is what they had to say…

Antioxidants

“Antioxidants scavenge or neutralize free radicals, which is why they’re such a key ingredient in skin care,” says Dr. Williams. Free radical damage and oxidative stress is one of the main causes of skin aging.

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“Excess free radicals are activated after sun exposure and pollution, but the internal metabolism of cells also creates free radicals every second of every day. That’s why a high-quality antioxidant product is an absolute must in everyone’s skin care regimen.”

While you may think your best face sunscreen is enough to protect you from sun damage. Dr. Williams is here to tell you otherwise. UV filters will only protect your skin from UVA and UVB radiation, but generally not from infrared (the sun’s heat rays) and visible light which is another large part of the sun’s natural spectrum, and these will also create free roots in your skin. That’s why we need to add the “safety net” of antioxidants. Topical antioxidants will also help protect your skin from oxidative stress caused by exposure to blue light from digital screens (blue light comes from the sun, but can also be emitted by digital devices).

Antioxidants approved by Dr Williams

1. Vitamin C
2. Vitamin E
3. Polyphenols (such as white tea and rosemary extracts)

protection factor

We wax lyrical about the daily need for sun protection. Why do we do this? Because dermatologists have been telling us for years that this is the key to keeping your skin looking younger for longer. “Sun protection is one of the most essential aspects of any skin care program,” says Dr. Williams. “This is because the sun is one of the biggest causes of premature skin aging and irregular pigmentation and can even lead to skin cancer.”

So, what sun protection factor (SPF) should you use? Dr Williams recommends a broad spectrum SPF 30–50 (these will block 97 – 98% of UVB rays). “There are two reasons to aim high,” he says. “Firstly, studies have shown that we usually don’t apply enough product, so even if you wear sunscreen, it may not reach the SPF listed on the box. Second, in everyday life, we don’t reapply it every two hours as needed to keep the level of protection high. So I don’t think SPF 12-15 in your moisturizer will save your skin, as in the afternoon, when the sun is at its highest, you will have almost no protection. So aim for a broad-spectrum SPF of 30–50 with a high UVA rating, plus antioxidants underneath.

She is quick to add, however, that a significant number of her patients, who wear high SPF daily, are vitamin D deficient. So, she recommends getting your levels checked or taking a vitamin D3 supplement. “Most people benefit from taking 1000 IU of vitamin D3 a day, which is more than you get in a typical multivitamin.”

Vitamin A

Dr. Williams suggests that everyone should have a “Matrix stimulator” in their routine. What is this? It is an ingredient that will stimulate the skin fibroblast cells in the dermis to produce more collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.

The best known “uterine stimulator” is vitamin A and its derivatives, such as retinol.

Dr. Mahto agrees: “Most people will benefit from introducing a vitamin A product into their routine. It is often referred to as the gold standard of antiaging thanks to its ability to rejuvenate the skin and minimize fine lines and wrinkles. The great thing about retinoids (the name given to all vitamin A derivatives) is that there are many different strengths/types. There really is something for everyone with the availability/selection of retinoid products now available on the market.’

Types of retinoids recommended by our skin

“Over-the-counter products containing the following support collagen production, reduce sun damage, lighten pigmentation, and soften lines and wrinkles,” says Dr. Williams. “They also help prevent breakouts, so for breakout-prone skin with aging concerns, it’s a win-win ingredient.”

1. Retinol – ideal for all skin types
2. Retinoic acid ester (hydroxypinacolone retinoate) – ideal for people with sensitive skin
3. Retinal (retinaldehyde) – ideal for acne-prone skin

If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, then you should avoid using retinoids. Dr. Mahto recommends the vitamin A alternative bakuchiol.

So, make sure you have antioxidants, SPF and vitamin A in your skincare routine.